“Only one thing is not possible in India, nothing”

Rahis - The Greatest Tuk-Tuk Driver in Jaipur

We arrived in Jaipur in the middle of a heatwave, with temperatures soaring above 100 degrees, so we knew we had to be strategic. Thanks to a brilliant recommendation from my cousin Jennifer and my Uncle Paul, who had both spent time here, we checked into the Pearl Palace. After a long travel day from Kochi and a few dry weeks in southern India where alcohol is harder to come by, we were excited to hit the bar. We curled up in the hotel’s cocktail lounge with a few snacks and a much-anticipated gin martini.

Rob had injured his foot back in Munnar, so I set out on my own the next morning with a loose list of sights to explore. Our Uber driver offered a flat rate for the afternoon and I accepted, starting with an early hike to the Hanuman Temple, also known as the Monkey Temple. I arrived just after sunrise, hoping to beat the heat. The winding trail was quiet, shared only with the monkeys, and offered sweeping views of Jaipur just beginning to stir.

At the water near the temple, locals were laughing and bathing, their voices echoing gently off the hills. I sat in the stillness of the temple, closed my eyes, and inhaled the scent of the warming day. Then, out of the corner of my eye, I noticed a monkey creeping toward my backpack. Before I could react, it was already tugging at the zipper. I swung around and shooed it off as my heart began to race. A rabies shot was not on my bingo card for India so no monkey petting for me on this trip.

From there, I visited Gaitore Ki Chhatriyan, a peaceful complex of marble cenotaphs built to honor Jaipur’s maharajas. I wandered alone through the arches and domes, grateful for the solitude. I was the only visitor at this time of the morning so I was able to move through the various sections at my leisure. The security guard even offered to take my picture, who am I to turn down such hospitality?!

My final stop was Jaigarh Fort, built to protect the Amber Palace. My guide, Ajay, walked me through the armory and the royal quarters. Built in the 1700’s it holds one of the largest cannons ever made as well as underground water storage facility that doubled as a vault for the royal families treasured possessions. The fort boasts sweeping views of the nearby lake and Amber Palace.

My favorite surprise was the old jail, now transformed into a modern art museum. The below sculpture is constructed wholly of cigarette buds.

One cultural experience I haven’t touched on yet is the interest Rob and I seem to draw among other Indian tourists. My aunt had mentioned that people may want our picture, but I assumed with the accessibility of the internet making the world feel smaller we would not be too much of a draw in this day and age. Throughout our entire journey we were usually among very few western tourists in most locations so we would garner turned heads and stares, and sometimes we were stopped by other tourists and asked if we would take a photo with them. At the beginning of the trip the question “photo?” Being murmured as we walked past was a bit confusing, but by Jaipur we were clear on the drill. If the request came from a respectful person or group we would usually oblige. As my guide was taking a picture of me within the palace this young woman and her two children walked up and asked for a photo. I would not usually get a copy of one of these pictures since they’d be taken with the requester’s phone, but my guide kept snapping alongside her husband. So here’s proof for my future generations that I was once compelling enough to someone to be in their vacation memories.

Later that day, I was finally able to connect with Rahis, a tuk-tuk driver highly recommended by a couple from the wedding we had attended. After a few WhatsApp exchanges, we booked him for the rest of our time in Jaipur. He quickly became our trusted guide, offering local insight and reliable companionship. Rob’s foot was feeling better so we planned our next day over cocktails and live music at the Peacock Bar on the rooftop of the Pearl Palace before grabbing dinner at a recommended hot spot (that I will likely not be revisiting due to what happened next) Apologies for the limited food commentary in this post…

The next morning, three weeks into our journey, Delhi belly caught up with me. I was only out of commission for half a day, thanks to fast-acting antibiotics, and Rob took the opportunity to explore on his own. He spent the morning at the Jantar Mantar, Hawa Mahal (which looks straight out of a Wes Anderson movie) and wandering through the Pink City, named for the terracotta hue that coats its buildings, a legacy of an 1800s royal visit. There was some kind of parade working its way through the Pink City that Rob followed for a few blocks trying to figure out the occasion.

Fate must have had a sense of humor, because the following day Rob came down with the same stomach bug. So again, I was out exploring solo. I told Rahis that since Rob was sick, I might as well do something he doesn’t enjoy: shopping. He smiled and told me he used to be a block print artist before driving a tuk-tuk, and he offered to take me to the workshop.

About 30 minutes outside the city, we arrived at an open-air artisan studio where a man named Max welcomed me and walked me through the process of carpet making and block printing. I watched as craftsmen used handheld scissors to carve patterns into carpets, revealing designs I had only ever seen in finished form. Max showed me the carved teakwood blocks used for printing. Each color required its own block, and the dyes were made from natural ingredients like indigo, turmeric, and pomegranate rind.

While I couldn’t commit to a carpet—explaining that we were between homes—I did treat myself to a custom-made blue block-printed kurta, silk pajamas, and picked up a silk shirt for Rob.

By our last day in Jaipur, both Rob and I were back on our feet. Rahis met us at 8 a.m. sharp to take us to Amber Palace. With our flight to Dehradun scheduled for that evening, we wanted to savor every last hour. We even got a photo with our main man Rahis.

Rahis had arranged a guide for the palace, who turned out to be part historian, part amateur photographer. After a few posed shots, he asked if he could just hold onto my phone. He darted ahead of us, clearing crowds and lining up perfect angles. At one point, he even asked a child to stop swinging on a metal railing that was blocking his frame. He meant business.

Amber Palace was dazzling, with its golden gateway and lavish courtyards. The most fascinating section was the zenana, where 12 chambers were built for each of the king’s wives, each aligned with a different zodiac sign. A secret passageway connected the king’s quarters to each wife’s room, allowing private visits without drawing attention.

We made quick stops at the Water Palace, City Palace and Rahis gave us both a tuk-tuk driving lesson before returning to our hotel. Rahis kindly invited us to his home for masala chai, but with time slipping away we had to decline. Instead, he brought us to his favorite roadside stall, where we sipped warm chai from terracotta cups, the earthy scent mingling with the dusty breeze.

After a warm hug from Rahis at the airport, we boarded our flight to Dehradun, the foothills of the Himalayas waiting for us.